FESTIVAL OF SAN FERMIN
RUNNING OF THE BULLS IN PAMPLONA, SPAIN
Chapter One: To Live
"Take my advice and live a long, long time. Because the maddest thing a man can do in this life is to let himself die."
- Don Quixote de La Mancha
Pamplona. Crisp morning air hits me as I exit my hotel early morning. I'm nervous but in good spirit. Nothing will happen, I tell myself as I recalculate the odds of something terrible happening to me. According to Google gods, only 16 people have died running with the bulls in Pamplona since 1910. Good odds, I reassure myself.
To some there are fates worse than death. Thoughts of being gored by a bull, my shorts torn and my bare backside thrust high into the air for all the world to see, flash through my mind. Would that be worst than death? I chuckle at the thought and wonder what would be worst: my naked ass broadcasted all over the world or death. Or perhaps, regret of missing out on this iconic global cultural event would be a true tragedy - a once in a lifetime opportunity slipping through my grasp.
For nine days in each July, Pamplona, nestled in the northeast of Spain, transforms into a mecca of celebration. The Festival of San Fermin takes hold, drawing throngs of visitors to this small city. The festival pays homage to the patron saint, San Fermin, who was martyred in the second century for his faith. The vibrant processions and exuberant parties honor his legacy, and the sea of red bandanas adorning the revelers serves as a poignant reminder of his sacrifice. In Pamplona, the festival is a sacred affair, a tradition woven into the fabric of its spirited inhabitants.
But to the outside world, the Festival of San Fermin is synonymous with one exhilarating event - the Running of the Bulls. This heart-pounding spectacle has garnered international fame, thanks in part to Ernest Hemingway's iconic novel, The Sun Also Rises. Hemingway's own experience in Pamplona during 1923 immortalized this once obscure bullfighting town, propelling it onto the global stage. Today, with a population of over a million during the festival, Pamplona welcomes an eclectic mix of thrill-seekers and culture enthusiasts alike, all eager to partake in the exhilaration that pulses through the city.
Chapter Two: Calm Before the Storm
"Waiting is the worst enemy as it gives idle minds opportunity to wander..."
- Unknown
7:00 AM
The bustling Calle de Mercaderes awaits me, just a stone's throw away from the infamous Dead Man's Curve. I arrive an hour before the start. Arrive any later and I might not find a spot, I was told and they were right. Already, the starting line is packed with hundreds of nervous and amped-up runners
7:20 AM
Police pushes us back, packing us like tightly packed sardines. In this sea of bodies, I catch whiffs of alcohol-infused sweat from those who have partied all night. And yet, amidst the tightness, someone lights a cigarette and fills the air with cigarette smoke. Got to love Europe.
7:30 AM
Police lets the crowd move forward a bit, which helps to relieve the pressure. Alcohol-infused sweats and cigarette smokes dissipate slightly into the air.
7:40 AM
There’s a loud whistle as police walk up and down the crowd to make a corridor for the mayor and other dignitaries. According to tradition, the mayor checks the route every morning before the run.
7:50 AM
Finally, we are released from the tight pack to find a spot for the run. I walk past the Dead Man’s Curve and continue my way up through Calle de la Estafeta, the longest and straightest stretch of the run. I have no idea where I'm going so I just follow others and continue to walk my way up the street. I see all the stores tightly boarded with wooden panels. About 20 steps away from the Dead Man's Curve, I see runners getting ready so I stop here.
7:55 AM
Waiting is the worst enemy as it gives idle minds opportunity to wander. I start thinking: What am I doing here? What’s my plan if my knee, which I injured running Val d'Aran ultra, doesn't hold up? Will they broadcast my naked butt all around the world if I get gored by a bull and loose my shorts? I start getting really nervous.
7:59 AM
There's a mist that surrounds us, unseen but palpable. I can't see it but I can feel it. I sense that it emanates from the collective nervousness of the runners, lingering in the air like captive spirit. And more it lingers, more it seeps into us and turns the nervousness into terror and fear. On my left, I see a runner making the Cross: the Father, the Son and the Holy Ghost. I wonder if I should be doing the same...
Chapter Three: Blink of an Eye
"Some people live a lifetime in a moment"
- Scent of a Woman
8:00:00 AM
The first rocket launches and the entire boulevard erupts with excitement. Runners jump up and down, trying to get a clear view of what's coming. Spectators on balconies start shouting with anticipation.
8:00:17 AM
After the initial excitement, a moment of calmness washes over us as we try to compose our nerves before the imminent rampage.
8:00:33 AM
Runners jump with more purposely now, desperately seeking a glimpse of what's coming.
8:00:37 AM
The second rocket goes off, signaling that all the bulls have been released. Anticipation is unbearable.
8:00:49 AM
I see panicked runners turning the Dead Man's Curve, first few and then an entire wave.
8:01:06 AM
It’s a full panic and it spreads like a wildfire. All around me, people are in a frenzy, running, falling, pushing, pulling, screaming, shouting and cursing. I catch my first glimpse of the charging bulls, their horns bobbing up and down with each determined step. The bulls just turned the Dead Man's Curve and they are charging straight ahead, unstoppable in their path of destruction. I don't know what to do so I start running. I look back and see the lead bull few strides away from me. I fixate on his left horn, which is aimed directly at my back. The screams of fallen runners and the terrified cries from the balconies fill the air. I don’t have to look back to know that the bull is right behind me. Instinctively, I veer to my left and hug the wall, hoping the lead bull and his crew will just pass me by. Out of the corner of my eye, I see the bulls rush past, followed by a trail of fleeing runners. I am safe. And just like that, it’s over.
8:01:23 AM
I start running again, following the bulls as I know if I get left behind too far, I won’t be able to run into the coliseum with the bulls as they will close the gates along the road to prevent bulls from running back. I pick up speed. Others are also running all around me and some are starting pick themselves off the road.
8:01:51 AM
I turn the corner and see the coliseum. I see spectators lined up all along the road, sitting on wooden fences and cheering us on. Last push and I’ll get to the coliseum.
8:02:34 AM
A group of us enters the coliseum together, met by the thunderous applause of 20,000 spectators. The energy within the coliseum is surreal, an indescribable mix of exhilaration and relief. The combination of being alive after a heart-pounding chase and the roaring cheers of the crowd creates an unforgettable feeling. I can't help but wonder if this is how the Roman Gladiators felt as they ran into the Coliseum.
Chapter Four: Epilogue
"Nobody ever lives their life all the way up except bull fighters."
- Ernest Hemingway
The Sun Also Rises
Shortly after we entered the coliseum, a small bull was released, causing chaos as it charged at the runners around the arena. I see it coming towards my general direction and I panic and start running towards the safety of the wall. Once out of harm's way, I glanced at my watch and realized that time's running out to catch my train back to Barcelona. Reluctantly, I leave the arena. I wish I could have stayed longer so I could continue to take in the energy. I felt like a junkie who just tasted his first fix. I’m hooked on this energy and I'm already seeking my next hit.
As I leave the coliseum, I pray: Please let me come back!
San Fermin Festival
San Fermin Festival, held annually between July 6th and July 14th in Pamplona, Spain, is renowned worldwide for its famous Running of the Bulls. But, there's so much more to the festival, which you can read about here and here to get some background and historical info. I was in Pamplona for the last three days of the festival and really enjoyed myself. San Fermin Festival would be one of the global cultural events/bucket-list items that I would gladly do again.
Throughout the week, there's singing, dancing, drinking, eating, and, of course, Running of the Bulls. What was so nice and unique about this festival was the friendliness and diverse nature of the people. There were people in their 20's busy partying but also a huge number of young families, older families, empty nesters, and others enjoying the festival.
Other than Running of the Bulls, the festival is highlighted by following of the Giant and Big Head parade (Gigantes y Cabezudos), which starts and ends at the main bus station after going through the old town square. One of the customs is for them to walk around with a sponge ball on a stick and hit kids with it, not quite sure why though...
Lastly, in the category of "Now I've Seen Everything", here's a DUI checkpoint in Pamplona, Spain at 9:30AM! Police officers were forcing people to take breathalyzer before allowing them proceed.
